Sunday, May 12, 2013

We walked to dinner last night; Bistro Champetre was nearby (just a block past the bank I'd used the other night) but instead of walking amid all the construction on the street I discovered the covered 'mall'. Not only was that much easier walking, but I discovered there was a synagogue (and bowling alley) down there, and once outside we passed a playground with quite a bit of activity going on.

The bistro was quite elegant, with a view of a very nice garden. When we arrived it was early in the evening and only one other table was occupied - with a sweet looking greyhound seated in one man's lap. Little by little the tables filled - all with French-speaking people. It was definitely not a tourist trap - the concierge steered us to a delightful spot - but at least our waiter did give us the English menu. We started off (of course!) with the escargot, a platter of 12. For dinner Mom chose the rack of lamb (and the requisite glass of wine) and I had roast duck, both delicious. Sadly neither of us had room for dessert (not that we're suffering any!)

Today was an early start (for the 21 of us who signed up for the optional trip to Giverny) because Martine wants to get us there before the hordes of other tourists arrive. Although it's cool the sun is shining and we expect a wonderful day to tour Monet's gardens. I am wearing my Van Gogh iris shirt (thank you, Marilyn) and who knows... I may find a Monet shirt at the gift shop there. [I did.] Mom says that it has one of the nicest gift shops she's ever visited.

The bus ride to Giverny is following the snaking path of the Seine river (whose name is is derived from a Celtic word that means snake.)

A bit of art history: there were changes in 1860; new painters did not want to follow the Academy's old rules (that paintings must be historical or mythological.) These revolutionaries wanted to paint everyday life, outside in the open air. They discovered that shadows were not just black, but full of colors which changed depending on the time of day. The artists had to paint quickly before the light changed, so instead of painting details they used their impressions, thus the origin of the term impressionism.

Monet was born in the 1840s, and growing up was inspired by a painter who painted many different versions of the Seine in differing lights. Monet later met Renoir and Sisley in Paris where he went to study art.

***

OMG - WHAT can I say about Monet's gardens at Giverny??? Talk about awesome - it was SO far beyond spectacular that words fail me. (And how often does THAT happen?!) Luckily I took about a hundred pictures... or maybe more! Unfortunately we were not allowed to take pix inside his house - I would have loved to snap one of the tiny sewing 'room' which showcased a beautiful treadle machine in an inlaid wood cabinet.

At 'the' bridge over the lily pond, the couple in front of us having their picture taken reenacted his proposal (made earlier in the day.) Very romantic. She said yes - both times. :)

After a stop in the very nice gift shop (where we had no trouble finding goodies to purchase) we enjoyed a delightful tearoom lunch with Linda, and then took a brief walk through the small impressionist museum. (I liked 'Herbay'? by Seurat? It looked like a watercolor!)

By the time we left, crowds were continuing to pour in, and we understood why Martine arranged our early start. It was much better not having to fight our way through mobs of people (we got there a little before it opened and were the first people in.) That allowed us to really get a feeling of the serenity of the gardens.

We could not have asked for a better day weather wise; the sun shone (most of the time), and despite some worries that the recent torrents of rain might have damaged the flowers they more than survived... they were magnificent! My only 'complaint' is that we had to get back on the bus and leave! Giverny was most certainly a delightful way to spend the final day of our sojourn in France!

No comments:

Post a Comment